A snowboard must be flat for optimum performance. The SkiVisions Snowboard Base Flattener is a powerful planing tool designed to quickly flatten and structure a convex (base high) snowboard base with a minimum of expertise, effort and potential for error. These instructions also include effective methods and tool specifications for flattening concave (edge high) snowboards.
Note the position of the M label on the Ruby Stone blade. Each Ruby Stone blade has two grit surfaces, two non-grit surfaces. It is important that the grit surfaces be positioned in the tool correctly for maximum cutting performance. However, if you position the stone in the tool incorrectly it will be evident by its reduced effectiveness. There are four cutting edges on each stone.
Is base flattening and structuring with the SkiVisions Snowboard Base Flattener expensive? NO! It is true that you have to make the initial capital investment in the tool and stone blades, but thereafter the Ruby Stone Blades are re-sharpenable (see Stone/Steel Inserts Maintenance) to near new performance an infinite number of times and RARELY need replacement. You can do it, we show you how!
What is unique about the Snowboard Base Flattener? Currently there is no efficient and/or effective way to flatten convex snowboard bases. Since snowboards are constantly used up on edge, the edges and the base plastic next to the edges wears away much faster than the base plastic at the center of the base, consequently the board's base quickly becomes convex (rounder). When it does, edge sets become more difficult because the board needs to be tipped progressively higher in order to reach the edge to set the edge because the board's bottom or base is becoming progressively rounder. A flatter base let you set your edge at a lower angle, and lets you keep that angle consistently. We believe that how high you need to tip your board to set the edge should be determined by the amount of base edge bevel you tune into the board (see Snowboard Edge Tuning) which you can set consistently by tuning your edges when you also keep your snowboard base flat.
Before getting into how to use the Snowboard Base Flattener, it is important to understand the relationship between flattening and edge tuning.
Since snowboards are constantly up on edge and they are driven hard on the edges with two feet in parallel and perpendicular to the board's edge, this creates an enormous amount of pressure on the board edges and base next to the edges such that they wear much faster than the center of the base, quickly making the board convex or "base high", especially if used in hard snow.
Edge tuning tools index themselves off an assumption that the base is flat. If it is worn into a convex condition the edge tuning tool bevel selections become distorted and inaccurate. That is why we think maintaining flat board bases is so critical.
Our Ski Sharp tool is as effective on snowboards as it is on skis, and there is a great deal of information on use of the tool in "Ski Sharp Edge Tuning Tool" which we won't duplicate here.
As to bevels on snowboards, we like 1 degree base and 1 degree side bevel for hard snow and steeps; for softer snow and/or less steep hills we like 2 degree base 2 degree side.
Finally, if you use your board on metal or rails in the park you bury the edges. We recommend that you have a dedicated board for the park and one for open slope riding which is never used on rails, etc, it is kept tuned with edges sharp.
How to use the Snowboard Base Flattener
The Snowboard Base Flattener is a push tool which means you push it down the snowboard base from behind the tool.
This picture shows the Base Flattener used on a ski instead of a snowboard, but the application is the same. The Base Flattener is pushed ONLY in the tip to tail direction, NEVER in the tail to tip direction. Use overlapping strokes and pull the tool back between strokes. The primary pressure is applied with your back hand on the large hump, the front hand on the small hump is primarily to guide and control the tool.
Look at the picture closely, you will notice that the stone blade is lifted off the snowboard base yet the front glide bar is on the snowboard. We recommend that when you are pulling the Base Flattener back for the backstroke that you leave the front of the tool on the snowboard base, but that you pick up the back of the tool slightly so that the blades does not touch the base at all during the backstroke phase.
The Ruby Stone Blades only cut base plastic when the grit is exposed; the grit gets clogged with base plastic and needs to be cleaned frequently by brushing with the brush which comes with the Base Flattener. ALWAYS REMOVE ANY WAX ON YOUR BOARD WITH WAX REMOVER BEFORE USING THE STONE BLADES, WAX WILL CLOG THE STONE GRIT AND WILL REDUCE ITS EFFECTIVENESS.
The 12 Inch Ruby Stone Blades
Our new 12 inch Ruby Stone Blades are the secret to the Base Flattener's performance. It is very difficult to do a flatten cut on a snowboard base by hand because the width of snowboards spreads the cutting load over a wide area, and because snowboard sintered bases are very tough, the job has been most effectively accomplished by large machinery. Well, welcome the new machine, and it works in the palms of your hands. And why do the Ruby Stone Blades work? Because the grit of the stone is very sharp, much like multiple diamonds, so it bites into the base and cuts with only the pressure you can generate by hand. It is truly the only alternative to heavy machinery for snowboards.
You can do it, we show you how!
The Snowboard Base Flattener comes standard with a medium grit Ruby Stone Blade, which is good for average snow conditions and general base flattening. In addition, there is an accessory coarse Ruby Stone Blade for extra cutting power when flattening snowboard bases, and, for spring snow conditions.
Note the position of the Ruby Stone Blade in the Base Flattener, it is important that the lines are positioned as shown. This gives four cutting edges for each stone as it is re-positioned in the tool. Two sides of the stone have exposed grit, two sides are smooth with no exposed grit, they are the re-sharpening sides. (See Ruby Stone Blade Maintenance)
Remember to keep the Ruby Stone Blades off the metal edges or they will wear excessively, THE STONE BLADES DO NOT CUT METAL EDGES. If your edges are higher than your base, you need to use the File Base Flattener or bevel the edges first with the SkiVisions Ski Sharp edge tuning tool so that the metal edges will no longer be higher than the base.
BE SURE TO ALWAYS CLEAN THE WAX OFF YOUR BASE WITH WAX REMOVER BEFORE USING THE RUBY STONE BLADES, WAX WILL CLOG THE GRIT AND RUIN THE STONE.
Base Structuring Decisions
The medium Ruby Stone Blade that comes standard with the Base Flattener is a good general use structure for all snow conditions. However, in fresh powder a finer structure is preferred which can be achieved with the medium grit blade just by using it with very light pressure, which then imparts a lighter structure to your base.
There is an accessory coarse Ruby Stone Blade which is for older and high moisture snow conditions such as in the spring.
If you flatten your base with the coarse Ruby Stone Blade, you should then re-structure the base lightly with the medium stone to soften the coarse structure.
There is a complete discussion of base structuring under the Ski Base Flattener section under the category "Base Structuring Decisions".
Ruby Stone Blade Maintenance
For maintaining the ruby stone blades see Stone/Steel Inserts Maintenance.
Flattening a Concave Snowboard Base
On all new snowboards there will be some concave (edge high) sections. The Snowboard Base Flattener cannot be used on concave boards, the stone blade cuts only base plastic, not metal edges (which will also damage the blade from excessive wear from rubbing on the metal edges) so the high edges need to be corrected. Besides, boards with concave bases perform poorly.
The concave problem is generally only on new boards. Since snowboards are used primarily up on edge, the edges and base plastic next to the edges wear more quickly than the base plastic at the center of the base, thus eliminating the concave condition of the base through use.
Our tool for flattening a concave snowboard base is the File Base Flattener. Please see the index for the instructions for this tool on snowboards.
The critical technique when flattening a base is to constantly check base flatness with a true bar so that you track your progress without over-doing it. True bars are best used with strong background light such as a drafting lamp that can be pointed down the base from the tip (see the instructions for the Ski Base Flattener for a picture and description). You then read the light that comes through between the true bar and the base which makes if easy to see exactly how flat the base is. You can also use a window in daylight in a darker room for the strong background light.
DO YOU NEED AN EXPENSIVE TRUE BAR? NOPE. A RULER WILL GENERALLY DO THE JOB AS LONG AS IT ISN'T FLEXIBLE. MOST RULERS ARE QUITE TRUE.
Safety Rules
It is VERY important to polish off the burr that is left when you work on metal snowboard edges; the burr can be very sharp and can cut you easily. We recommend the SkiVisions Ski Sharp for such purpose, or, you can polish the edges by hand with a stone.
Maintain a firm grip on the Base Flattener when running it off the tail of your board so you don't drop it.
Your board must be held in a vise when using the Base Flattener.
This picture shows the Base Flattener used on a ski instead of a snowboard, but the application is the same. The Base Flattener is pushed ONLY in the tip to tail direction, NEVER in the tail to tip direction. Use overlapping strokes and pull the tool back between strokes. The primary pressure is applied with your back hand on the large hump, the front hand on the small hump is primarily to guide and control the tool.
Look at the picture closely, you will notice that the stone blade is lifted off the snowboard base yet the front glide bar is on the snowboard. We recommend that when you are pulling the Base Flattener back for the backstroke that you leave the front of the tool on the snowboard base, but that you pick up the back of the tool slightly so that the blades does not touch the base at all during the backstroke phase.
The Ruby Stone Blades only cut base plastic when the grit is exposed; the grit gets clogged with base plastic and needs to be cleaned frequently by brushing with the brush which comes with the Base Flattener. ALWAYS REMOVE ANY WAX ON YOUR BOARD WITH WAX REMOVER BEFORE USING THE STONE BLADES, WAX WILL CLOG THE STONE GRIT AND WILL REDUCE ITS EFFECTIVENESS.
Note the position of the Ruby Stone Blade in the Base Flattener, it is important that the lines are positioned as shown. This gives four cutting edges for each stone as it is re-positioned in the tool. Two sides of the stone have exposed grit, two sides are smooth with no exposed grit, they are the re-sharpening sides. (See Ruby Stone Blade Maintenance)
The critical technique when flattening a base is to constantly check base flatness with a true bar so that you track your progress without over-doing it. True bars are best used with strong background light such as a drafting lamp that can be pointed down the base from the tip (see the instructions for the Ski Base Flattener for a picture and description). You then read the light that comes through between the true bar and the base which makes if easy to see exactly how flat the base is. You can also use a window in daylight in a darker room for the strong background light.